Retro Fetish: John Willie and the Bizarre

To accompany this blog post I got together with this era's own Sweet Gwendoline, Miss Miranda for a 50's fetish inspired photoshoot! Images (exluding Bizarre artwork) ©Anna Swiczeniuk

John Alexander Scott Coutts, also known as John Willie (slang for penis, as if you couldn't guess) was often described as the Leonardo Da Vinci of fetish, famous for producing 1950s magazine Bizarre. 

Born on 9th December 1902 in Singapore to British parents, the family moved back to England shortly after. In 1923 at the age of 18, he joined the British Army. Two years later he rose to the rank of Second Lieutenant of the Royal Scots, but was forced to leave in 1925 when he married nightclub hostess Evelyn Fisher, without permission. 

Coutts moved to Australia but unfortunately the marriage ended in divorce only 5 years later. This gave him the time to work for a Sydney-based fetish club as an illustrator and photographer, and he soon became involved with one of his models, Holly Faram. They married in 1942 and moved in together; it is said that when friends visited his apartment they were greeted with a black-and-white photo of Holly, naked and tied to a tree.

 Miss Miranda wearing our Oh You Tease! set, arriving in October.

In around 1945-47, Coutts moved to New York City, while Holly chose to remain in Australia, however they remained married. This is when Coutts adopted the name John Willie and started producing Bizarre Magazine (no, not the current one of the same name). 

The original Bizarre Magazine was sold via mail order to private consumers, and comprised of fetish-themed photographs (often of his wife), stories and hand-drawn illustrations, all created by Coutts and sometimes a guest contributor. Readers sent letters in covering themes such as bondage, amputee fetishism, transvestism, corsets and more.

It was Coutts' artwork that really set the magazine apart, and secured his place in the fetish hall of fame. Using models or photographs taken himself, he drew in an anatomically correct style, using different techniques for different characters. His heroines, such as his best known character Sweet Gwendoline, were drawn in a smooth form, whereas crosshatching and pen marks characterised his villains. 

Miranda wearing our Dominique set  and some delicious Fabulously Fetish boots!

Other characters that frequented Bizarre included a dominatrix known as U69 (sometimes censored to U89) and the only prominent male character in the series, Sir Dystic D'Arcy, who was a parody of Coutts himself. 

The comics were underscored with classic slapstick comedy, and used innuendos instead of explicit sexual depictions. Each episode featured Gwendoline foiling the plans of D'Arcy, resulting in her being restrained in complicated rope bondage for the majority of the story. It was obvious that Coutts genuinely liked women, as his female characters were always portrayed as intelligent, and his males as dimwitted muscle. 

 Miss Miranda wearing our Dominique corset

The art of John Willie influenced later artists, including ENEG and Eric Stanton, with the latter later creating his own version of Sweet Gwendoline, signing his name J.W. Stanton (for "John Willie") in tribute.

Although Coutts was friends with Stanton, their publicist Irving Klaw did not approve of his artists fraternising. 

If the name Irving Klaw rings a bell, I'm not surprised. He was one of the first fetish photographers and filmmakers, and the one who "discovered" Bettie Page. Klaw began his career selling second-hand magazines, which soon moved onto operating a mail order business selling cheesecake photos of movie stars. Customers began to request more "damsel-in-distress" bondage photographs, which he and his sister Paula began to take themselves using burlesque artists. 

Although still controversial, Klaw was extremely careful that none of his images contained sexual acts or nudity, which would render his business illegal. As the Bizarre Magazine publisher he also asked Coutts to sensor some of his work, feeling that it would be too extreme for some. 

In 1957 after 20 issues, Bizarre Magazine was either given or sold to Coutts' secretary and her then boyfriend, although it is said he was never happy with how they ran it. Coutts moved to Hollywood and sadly developed a brain tumour in 1961, which forced him to return to England.

It is said he died bitter and penniless, and destroyed his archives in anger. On the 5th August 1962 he died in his sleep.

"I've tried a corset on myself and it was nothing else but damned uncomfortable. It gives a women a beautiful shape which I like but I shall get double pleasure out of using it as an 'instrument of correction'...I don't like extreme cruelty, I simply apply as much as is needed to correct disobedience."

- John Alexander Scott Coutts a.k.a John Willie

Seeing Red Continued: History of a Harlot

A while ago we looked into why red lingerie has been cited the sexiest colour for lingerie and the origins of red underwear.

“From as early as the 15th century, clothing worn by prostitutes had to be distinguishable from that of other women, mainly because society shunned their lifestyle choice. Often a harlot had a yellow stripe on her clothing, but more commonly the stripe was red. Of course there is nothing to say what colour their underwear was, but perhaps this taboo naughtiness kick-started the ongoing trend. Not that wearing red lingerie means you wish to be a prostitute, of course, but it may have given the colour red that extra touch of kink!”

As we delved deeper into the history of Britain and prostitution we discovered a tantalising piece of evidence that may answer our question further about the origin of using red for passionate and sexy lingerie.

Depiction of a brothel

It is a well know fact that prostitution is one of the world's oldest professions. Throughout the ages reigning bodies across Britain accommodated this profession in a variety of ways. The attitude of the authorities towards prostitutions and licentious behaviour in London fluctuated according to who was in power.

Richard I, 1189-1199, took a very liberal view towards prostitution. He was a great fanatic of London's brothels and found himself arrested in a Brothel in Paris. Richard I was succeeded by King John who also enjoyed visits with London's sex sellers.

Brothel dressed in red

King John's son, Henry III grew up surrounded by London's sex scene and an open attitude towards visiting prostitutes. He became one of the most hoarding, close-fisted monarchs Britain has ever seen; high taxes and restraints on London's entertainment. And yet the brothels was one area that Henry III turned a blind eye to.

The mood changed significantly when Edward I came to power in 1272. He was a moral crusader, evicting prostitutes, pimps and madams from the walls of the City of London and closing all brothels. Legislation was put in place to evict sex workers and anyone selling sex would be imprisoned for a minimum of forty days.

He considered the presence of prostitutes, or 'women of evil life,' attracted criminals, murderers and general evil. In later history, it was discovered that Edward I derived an income from brothels in Southwark, London's brothel area, and that he also issued a licence to Isaac of Southwark to run a brothel.

Brothel with prostitutes

Edward II was happy to let the London brothels flourish, he ignored the legislation put in place by Edward I. Rumours are he preferred boys. But everything was about the change with Edward III succeeded the throne.

It is said that Edward III had an enlightened attitude towards London's sex scene. He came to the throne in 1327 and reviewed the legislation set in place by Edward I. Brothels, pimps, madams, and prostitutes were welcomed back within the city walls and allowed to continue trading as long as prostitutes wore a distinguishing mark in the form of a red rosette upon their attire.

This system was originally operated in Avignon, France, and further afield in Europe to distinguish a prostitute from every other female going about their daily business.

 An aiguilette

In France, the authorities were extensively attempting to eradicate the sex trade. In particular in Avignon where the red-light district, or 'hot-street', was particularly well developed, prostitutes were forced to distinguish their trades due to ordinances that were taking place. The Avignon prostitutes wore the original red rosette later worn in London. Called an 'aiguilette', a knotted cord, harlots originally wore this knotted cord in a colour contrasting their dress, which was required to be worn conspicuously on her clothing. In later years it was required to be a red aiguilette.

In Switzerland, prostitutes were forced to wear an insignia indicative of their profession in the form of little red caps.

One reason for making British prostitutes wear the rosette was so they could be distinguished from housewives and ordinary women going about their daily business. In the hope that this would deter men from approaching them and offering sex.

Another reason for this obvious distinction was due to the sumptuary regulations that Edward III was putting in place. The feudal order was breaking down and the nobility imposed restrictions on dress to maintain visible 'class distinctions'.

Brothel and Prostitutes

These restrictions also had to be applied to prostitutes as many prostitutes were wearing finer and 'classier' clothes to flaunt their goods and skills but also to escape the prosecution.

Similarly, prostitutes were banned from wearing aprons which may suggest they were a house-wife.

Later in 1355, London authorities banned prostitutes from wearing fur and required them to wear 'ray' or striped vestments often in red and white or black and white stripes so they would be conspicuous.

For more information about the colour red and the origin of red lingerie please read our original blog.

Burlesque Past and Present: The glamorous Dolly Sisters

The art of the tease is on everyone's lips; with a rising interest in burlesque, cabaret clubs are in full swing and new acts are cropping up every week. At Playful Promises we just adore a bit of cheek, and would love to introduce you to our favourite burly girls, past and present! Keep your eyes firmly peeled, as each week we feature inspiring performers guaranteed to set pulses racing!

Although one could argue they weren't technically burlesque dancers, I couldn't help writing about The Dolly Sisters! While other performers were taking off their clothing, the Dolly Sisters put theirs on, adorning themselves with the most extravagant finery of the 1920s. Decked out in furs, feathers and haute couture, they perfected the single-sex "tandem" dance act. 

Glittering stars of their time, The Dolly Sisters rose to the top of their game. But at what price? Their critics claimed that their act was nothing special, and the way they treated men was questionable, however their elegance broke through social barriers.

Born in Budapest, twins Janszieka (Jenny) and Roszicka (Rosie) looked so alike that even their mother couldn't tell the difference and they were immediately given pink and blue ribbons to differentiate them. Times were tough and they were eventually brought to America in 1905, at the age of 12. 

They loved to dance, and at the age of 15 began to make money to support their family by dancing in beer halls. Once they were barred for being underage they instead turned to the vaudeville where they danced until 1911. At the age of 19 they were signed with the Ziegfeld Follies. 

The Dolly Sisters were extremely exotic for the time, with their dark skin and alluring eyes. Combining this with their novelty appeal, stunning costumes and impressive choreography, and they were bound to hit the big time. It is said they were named thanks to a theatre producer's wife calling them "The Dollies". 

The sisters certainly knew how to get what they wanted, and they went about it shamelessly. Men flocked to the girls, and the Dollies particularly enjoyed the attention of the rich and lonely. Legend has it they would remove their expensive jewelery when a wealthy man approached, hoping that he would lavish them with more, seeing their necks and wrists devoid of sparkle. 

Throughout their lifetimes they took five husbands between them, but were constantly pursued nevertheless. One such admirer was Diamond Jim Brady, who, as you can imagine, was the flashiest man in New York! At 20 years old the girls received diamond rings and a Rolls-Royce wrapped in ribbons, among dozens of other gifts. 

In 1920 the sisters came to London to star in a Charles Cochrane stage show, performing dances accompanied by a troop of dogs, calling the act "The Dollies and their Collies". 

The London socialites were enamored, and soon Edward The Prince of Wales, the world's most eligible bachelor, was attending their performances. Later at a private party he rushed up to shake their hands, telling them they were wonderful. They danced together, and continued to regularly cross paths throughout Europe, fueling gossip. The Dolly Sisters refused to comment on their friendship, leaving one reporter at a loss; "If the Prince of Wales ever kissed the Dolly Sisters, they're not telling on him!"

Gordon Selfridge, the founder of the famous Oxford Street department store, fell hopelessly in love with Jenny that he squandered a large part of his fortune on her. Despite being almost twice her age, he fawned over her for ten years, giving her anything and everything she desired, including ice cream flown daily from London to Paris. Some say he eventually lost financial control of his business due to the money he lavished on the Dolly. 

The Dollies caught a taste for the cards, and soon became recognizable as the most extravagant gamblers in Europe. They bet recklessly, winning and loosing colossal amounts of money, with poor Selfridge picking up the tab. 

Then, in 1927, reality hit. Rosie nearly died from appendicitis and intestinal poisoning, a sure sign that in their mid-30s it was time for them to retire from showbusiness. The Dolly Sisters was over, but as for the sisters themselves, they continued with their high-lives, gambling and social prominence. 

In retirement the sisters finally began to live separate lives. Jenny opened her own couture house in Paris, which resulted in a flop, then adopted two five-year-old girls (things never change...), claiming she had found them in an orphanage in Budapest. Bizarrely, and possibly in an attempt to fill her sister's absence, she claimed the girls were twins, and that she was teaching them to become the next Dolly Sisters. On the other hand, Rosie had found the supposed love of her life, Irving Netcher. 

Jenny wallowed in her loneliness, until she fell in love with a french aviator, and shady character, Max Constant. One morning they were in a horrific car crash, leaving Jenny in a coma for 5 days. She awoke into her worst nightmare; a punctured lung, fractured skull, and worst of all, the right side of her face was in bloody ruins, and with it her wealth and fame. 

For the rest of her life she wished she hadn't survived the crash, and sold most of her jewelery to pay for countless plastic surgeries in an attempt regain her lost beauty. She became a shade of her former self, feeling constantly flawed and broken. Her solitude consumed her as her friends deserted her and her marriage fell apart. What finally drove her to the edge was the mistaken belief that Rosie had turned her back on her also, after failing to invite her over for the Memorial Holiday Weekend. 

In May 1 1941, Jenny put herself out of her misery, hanging herself with her dressing gown tie in the shower of her hotel room. 

Distraught over her sister's death, but determined to carry on, Rosie lived long enough to see a biopic made of their lives in 1945, inevitably called The Dolly Sisters. However, in 1962 she also attempted suicide using sleeping pills. She lived for another 8 years, finally passing of heart failure on 1 February, 1970.

Not long before she died, Rosie gathered her friends around her, telling them, "It's been a beautiful life. Life has been grand to me and I thank God every day, every night, that he's given me a beautiful, wonderful life."

BurlyCamp 2012

 

BurlyCamp is an exciting new event produced by and for the London burlesque community. Taking place at the gorgeous surroundings of Hoxton Hall on the 19th-20th May 2012, BurlyCamp will provide an opportunity to discover or develop your Burlesque persona with two days of skills workshops, performances, vintage crafts and classes.


Whether you're new to burlesque performing or are hoping to take your career to the next level, BurlyCamp will have workshops to educate and inspire you.


Even if you can't quite imagine yourself on the stage, you can simply come along for fun, or perhaps to learn some craft skills to help out your new burly friends. BurlyCamp is open to women and men of any age, so come and join us for a weekend to remember!

Here are just some of the amazing workshops included:

Beginners Ballet - Giving you the run-down on some basic ballet moves to add into your burlesque act.

Burlesque Life Drawing - Sue Dray helps you release your creative side with this arty workshop

The Burlesque Name Generation Game - helping you to market and develop your burly identity, expert Jo Breeze gives you her tips and tricks of the trade.

Fire 101 - TeTe Bang guides you through the basics of fire performance, including vital safety aspects through to fire eating!

Tips and Tricks for Creative Costumes - Miss Lolly Pops teaches you how to create stunning costumes for movement and photographs.

Pose Your Way to Pin Up Perfection - Understanding how to pose is an integral part of your burlesque career, from live shots to promo images. Photographer and Burlesque star Tigz Rice shows you how it's done.

If that wasn't enough, attendees will be in with the chance of winning a Playful Promises Love corset!

Find BurlyCamp on Facebook and Twitter for up to the minute news!

Burlesque Past and Present: Betty "Ball of Fire" Rowland

The art of the tease is on everyone's lips; with a rising interest in burlesque, cabaret clubs are in full swing and new acts are cropping up every week. At Playful Promises we just adore a bit of cheek, and would love to introduce you to our favourite burly girls, past and present! Keep your eyes firmly peeled, as each week we feature inspiring performers guaranteed to set pulses racing!

This week's Burlesque star is a real force to be reckoned with; Betty "Ball of Fire" Rowland was named after her stunning red hair and vibrant stage presence. Her fiery attitude contrasted against her petite stature that originally earned her the name "the littlest burlesque star". 

Born on 23 January 1916, she is said to have had a tough life. Her and her sisters had originally wanted to go to college, however "we got cheated out of it because of the Depression", she recalled in 2009. Her father lost his accountancy job in the 1930s, and after taking dance classes Betty and her sister Rose-Zell took to burlesque to help raise money for the family. 

Betty started her career as a Minsky's girl in New York, and would have continued there if a crackdown hadn't been put in place in the mid 30's. Mayor LaGuardia and several citizens groups considered burlesque to be a corrupt moral influence, and after much dodging and fining, Minsky's was finally busted thanks to a dancer not wearing her G-string. 

Even while the venue was still at it's peak, Betty found life tough, often earning herself dinner rather than cash.

Her troupe headed west in 1938, headlining the Follies Theater in Los Angeles for a short run. The LA audience loved Betty and she continued to dance there for 14 years. In her heyday she was considered one of the best paid burlesque dancers, even appearing in a few films and said to have dated Orson Welles. 

Betty and Liz Goldwyn

The hit 1941 film "Ball of Fire" was at least partly based on Betty; the costumes themselves were flagrant copies of her burlesque ensembles. As a publicity stunt she sued the producer Samuel Goldwyn, unaware that she would later be interviewed by his grand-daughter, Liz Goldwyn, in her 2005 documentary "Pretty Things". 

Like many burlesque dancers of the time, Betty had her run ins with the law. Joan from "In SRO Land" had the chance to ask Betty about her arrest in 1952. Despite working for some time in LA with only one misdemeanor arrest in 1939, she was suddenly arrested for a lewd performance. According to Betty, "one night two LAPD cops arrived at the Follies expecting to get a free pass, but theater manager Maurice Rosen was firm – no freebies." Seeking revenge, the policemen arrested Betty and Maurice. 

They were faced with a 4 month sentence, which was soon dropped with her attorney spinning a media story that Betty was quitting burlesque to open a perfume shop in Beverly Hills. According to Betty, the real reason was more a case of a substantial pay off placed in the right hands, allowing for her release. 

Betty was said to retire from burlesque in the early 60s after getting married, yet still receives fan mail to this day!

In the late 60s she inherited a Santa Monica bar called Mr. B's, and operated it until 1995 when she partnered up with some investors and renovated the bar into the 217 Lounge. Judging by the most recent interview I could find, Betty was still working as a bar and restaurant host in her early 90s, still showing off her fiery personality. 

In 2010 a post on the ministry of burlesque calls for donations to the Betty Rowland Trust. At 93 she suffered a heart attack and while in hospital recovering some of her "family friends" helped themselves to her furniture, burlesque memorabilia and let her insurance lapse. I couldn't find any further details on whether the trust reached it's goals and whether Betty is well - if anyone has any further information we would love to hear it!