The kimono

Kimono literally means “the thing to wear” (ki “wear” and mono “thing”), which was first used in everyday language in the mid-19^th century. Prior to this, the traditional garment was only known as a kosode, meaning ‘small sleeve’. Kimono are straight-seamed robes that are wrapped around the body, left side over right, and secured with a sash known as an obi, which is tied at the back. Generally worn to the ankle, the length of the garment can be altered by drawing material up underneath the obi. The wrap style and loose fabric has been developed to cohere to the culture’s lifestyle and climate; many activities are performed while seated on the floor.

The style of traditional kimono also varies between women, men and children, and also indicates whether the female wearer is married. Young women’s kimonos, known as a furisode, have longer sleeves and tend to be more elaborate than the older, married woman’s garment. It is said that the traditional reason for the sleeves is that when replying to a man, she waves the sleeves back and forth for ‘yes’, and left to right for ‘no’.

The pattern of the kimono rather than the cut of the fabric acts as an indicator of social status; the more extravagant the pattern, the wealthier the wearer. Formality is also determined by accessories, the fabric and the number of family crests (kamon) adorning the garment. Silk was the most desirable of fabrics, with only the most privileged able to wear such luxury regularly. The majority of Japanese society would only have the chance to wear silk kimono on special occasions, sometimes being forbidden to do so all together.

Today, it is mostly women that continue to wear kimono, and usually only on special occasions. During the late 19^th century, traditional garments were gradually replaced by more convenient Western clothing and Yukata, a casual, thin style of kimono. The decline in the heavier garments seemed to happen as Eastern culture filtered through to the West, and vice versa. One slightly morbid urban myth suggests that the decline in kimono was encouraged by the 1932 fire at Shirokiya’s Nihonbashi store. Women did not tend to wear underwear under their kimono, and several women were said to refuse to jump into the safety nets for fear of exposing themselves!

The wrap style of the kimono has become an integral part of international fashion, influential throughout the West. From the Victorian period onward, Europe had a fascination with the exotic East, with stars such as Anna May Wong gracing the silver screen. To Western women the kimono seemed an ideal new garment that allowed freedom of movement, contrasting with the corseted, petticoat-clad style of the period. American interest in the kimono diminished in the tense years prior to WW2, however, souvenir kimono from returning GI’s rekindled the interest. During the 1950s, kimono and kimon-inspired gowns were popular, both as loungewear and daily wear.

If you want to grab one of these gorgeous vintage kimono for yourself, make sure you visit our boutique in Brick Lane. We currently have a selection of one-of-a-kind silk kimono starting at £150; one of which you can see modelled by the gorgeous Miss Betsy Rose above and below!

Sultry Sleepwear

Does the word “pyjama” conjure up images of neck-to-toe flannel nightmares and bananas (even the two combined)? Blue and white stripes and pink bunny rabbits?

Sleepwear has been dominated by these monstrosities for far too long; we have somehow headed backwards in taste, from the glamorous slips and feathered robes of the 1920s to the hellish items known as “onesies”. There is a time and a place for adults in pyjamas and the 21^st century is not it! Thankfully, we are not the only ones under this impression, as sales for feminine, classic nightwear has grown once again.

The chemise appears to be one of the oldest forms of sleep wear. Dating back to the Middle Ages (when surviving past birth tended to be more important than fashion), the chemise was a smock-like garment worn by both sexes underneath clothing to protect it from bodily sweat. This was the only piece of clothing washed regularly (yuck) and also what was used for sleeping.

It was only during the Victorian era that sensuous, attractive nightwear was introduced, and as with many new items of the time, these were something only the affluent could acquire. To own a sweeping floor-length gown was considered a luxury.

At the turn of the century, fashion once again began to change. Corsets were loosened, skirts were shortened and negligees appeared as a reflection of the flapper dresses of the 1920s. However, just when women were gifted with these lacy, silky dreams, the first and second World Wars broke out and the idea of such opulent items became preposterous.

When one thinks of classic vintage sleepwear, the figure-hugging slips and built-in bullet-bras of the 1950s come to mind. It is these archetypal designs that have endured, which always find themselves back on trend. Lingerie has seen a vintage revival, and sleepwear is no exception. When searching for vintage nightwear, it is often difficult to find anything but average, fit for purpose items that were designed for durability rather than titillation. Understanding their customers’ frustration, many brands have worked on their own styles of vintage inspired sleepwear that allows comfort without losing any impact.

Playful Promises has reworked a classic sleepwear staple for our newest collection. Our Lyla playsuits are a quirky twist on the timeless chemise, mimicking the dress-like shape with comfy built-in shorts. All that’s left is to choose your colour: sultry black or mischievous pink?

The Colour Purple

As the leaves turn orange and brown, the sky turns to grey we seek a little colour in our autumn winter wardrobe. And we have just the colour for this sombre autumn which is looking to be upon us pretty soon according to British weather forecasters.

Moving away from the usual black and red lingerie colours, purple has invaded design boards and has become an important trend in the lingerie dye pots for the next few seasons. Various tones of purple have all been used to create unique colour-ways, from mauve to violet to lavender.

Deep purples in lingerie will still ooze seduction that a red or black ensemble may give out, but mauve has something a little more enticing and interesting that is still sexy but also wearable by day and night.

The colour purple denotes wealth and noblesse, a majestic and royal colour. It was a difficult pigment to achieve and therefore rarely used on everyday fabrics.  Today, as the dying process has been perfected, it is still a majestic and rich colour but is appealing to lingerie designers as it can be very feminine in the right shades and also flattering.

Deep purple lingerie is subtle and elegant and has brought a contemporary colour to traditional designs. Playful Promises have made full use of the purple design brief by including a mauve Genie set with triangle soft-cup bra, non-padded bra and brief with gathered detail on the back. This set works well on pale and tanned skin tones.

We have also included a mauve, peach and pink printed range. Etti has a beautiful floral print inspired by the latest colour trends and has the added satin fabric to add a real majestic opulence to the sets.  Emma, our designer, has framed the purple floral print with satin black straps and black mesh inserts. This has added a retro design element to the feminine cut pieces, but as a set they are highly contemporary designs that have proved very popular.

This season’s swimwear has seen a small injection of mauve bikinis and swimsuits, however it is next season’s autumn winter lingerie that will see the largest use of deep purple tones. This promises a lighter purple colour for spring summer 2012, the use of lilacs will again be vastly popular in lingerie. We have a little treat in store for next season’s swimwear but check out our Exotic Charmer bikini set or Swimsuit for a bold injection of purple in your swimwear this summer.

Sexy smalls verses assertive drawers

Vargas Girdle from Kiss Me Deadly

The era of sexy, minimalist smalls is being pushed aside by bold, assertive lingerie. Our recent trip to the heart of lingerie trends in Paris has revealed to us that retro giant briefs, high-waisted girdles and retro longline bras are back in fashion! But don’t be fooled, Grandma’s knickers are still not the height of fashion, so keep those well hidden.

Delicate, simple and petite lingerie will always be available however, more and more brands are offering high-waist briefs that can be worn above the navel or even above the waist-line and below the bust depending on the style. There is also a surge in longline girdles that also rise above the navel and sit below the bust and longline bras that extend to the waist-line creating a flattering shape. These latest trends have emerged from the growth in popularity of shape wear and vintage retro lingerie and faux retro lingerie.

Brands such as Kiss Me Deadly and What Katie Did are experiencing a great interest in their dominant lingerie lines, but there is also demand for contemporary designed statement lingerie with a modern design and lighter more feminine fabrics.

Playful Promises have experienced a surge in demand for longline bras. The Ava range was extremely popular for us and for our Autumn Winter collection we have included high waist briefs and longline bras. These chunky lingerie pieces have almost sold out before even reaching the shops and our spring summer 2012 lingerie collection promises further longline bras and girdles and high waist briefs.

The need for smaller and delicate lingerie is still strong and stylists are using this opportunity to now juxtapose these bold, statement pieces of lingerie with smaller, lighter and delicate pieces. I love the mix of the soft-cup triangle bra from the Playful Promises Etti line matched with the bold block of the high-waist Etti brief. The high waist brief has additional tulle mesh inserts to lighten the bold block design. However, I love how the Etti range can almost be worn as outer wear. Match the Etti soft-cup bra with the hipster Brazilian brief too!

Longerline lingerie is also great under summer t’s, showing off bold shapes, interesting cutting edge design and patterns and something a little saucy.

Try the style yourself; the Ava longline bra works great under a loose black or white t-shirt or the black What Katie Did Maitresse bullet bra with a cropped t-shirt.



Brazilian Bottoms

Brazilian or Hollywood? This is one of the major dilemmas of the waxing world. But a Brazilian bottom is a whole new dilemma in the lingerie world and Brazilians are certainly taking it by storm this summer.

Brazilian briefs are becoming more and more popular across the UK. Brazilians are generally snug and tight fitting to the body yet will show no visible panty line which is making it so sought after. Brazilian briefs are also praised for elongating the leg and being flattering under skimpy summer clothes. Brazilian briefs can be described as ‘boy-shorts’ but are not quite the same. Cut straight across the top of the back and almost straight across the bottom too but cut higher, showing more cheek. The brief sits between a boy short and a thong.

Marks and Spencers have recently been in the news with record sales of their cheeky Brazilian cut briefs with a 64% increase in sales of this exotic cut knicker.

Playful Promises are eagerly anticipating our own Brazilian designed brief. The Etti Brazilian brief has a satin printed front panel and black mesh back and sides. The leg is cut slightly higher than our normal briefs and shows a little more cheek. We are loving this new style, but will you like the feel of more cheek on display? Teamed with our retro longline bra we love this blend of old and new.

The Brazilian originates in Brazil on the beaches of the colourful Rio De Janeiro. Sun worshippers and tanning specialists desired minimal beachwear to interfere with their tan lines, thus was created the very skimpy Brazilian thong beachwear.

However, the Brazilian only made an appearance in Lingerie around 2005 when Victoria’s Secrets designed a line of Brazilian cut briefs. It has taken a while for the brief to become of interest to the UK market but with tight fitting summer dresses as well as maxi dresses calling for invisible panty lines the Brazilian has found it’s niche.

Need some no VPL briefs this summer? Shop our briefs and thongs shop for the perfect choice!